Julia Lebedinsky
  • Certified Zoopsychologist (Cat Behaviorist) - Requalification (Russia)
  • Licensed Veterinary Nurse Practitioner - Requalification (Russia)
  • Licensed Nurse Practitioner (20 years of experience in Human Healthcare) - (Ukraine/Russia/Israel)
  • Registered Nurse - License (Israel)
About me

  • I graduated from medical college with a degree in "General Medicine" and "Nursing" and obtained a qualification as a Nurse Practitioner (Human healthcare).
  • In Israel, I completed a training course and received a license to work as a Registered Nurse.
  • Since my whole life has been closely connected with cats, and I have extensive experience and knowledge about them, I undertook professional retraining courses and obtained the qualifications of: Animal Psychologist (Zoopsychologist) and Veterinary Nurse Practitioner.
  • I specialize in feline behavior and behavioral, preventive therapy focused on addressing the root cause of issues rather than just the symptoms.
  • I work remotely, offering consultations worldwide. My consultation methods include phone calls, video chats, or text messaging (for managing patients and answering questions).
  • In my work with cats, I use my knowledge of physiology and psychology, which helps me distinguish between potential health problems and behavioral issues.
  • I am familiar with pharmacology, medication's actions, and potential side effects.
  • I also volunteer in street cat rescue, first aid, and treatment.
  • I participated in TNR ( Trap-Neiter-Return) program.

Problems I Can Help With:



  • Litter Box Issues: Cat not using the litter box, urinating on the floor, bed, or personal belongings.
  • Aggression: Aggression toward owners or other animals in the household.
  • Vocalization: Excessive meowing or other vocal behaviors.
  • Destructive Behavior: Chewing furniture, gnawing on cords, scratching furniture, or jumping onto counters.
  • Introducing Cats: General advice and step-by-step guidance for introducing cats to each other, including detailed handling of specific situations.
  • Tension Between Cats: Why do cats suddenly start fighting, and how to solve it
  • New Kitten Integration: How to help an existing cat accept a new kitten into the home.
  • Cat-Dog Introduction: Managing conflicts and solutions for introducing cats to dogs.
  • Multicat Households: Detailed analysis and conflict resolution for cats in families with multiple pets.
  • Relationship Issues Between Cats and New Family Members.
  • Cat Aggression Toward Children.
  • Nighttime Behavior: Cats who disturb sleep, particularly with nighttime activity.
  • Spayed Cat Still Acting Like She's in Heat? I offer a detailed assessment and advice to help resolve it.
  • Neutered Male Still Showing Mating Behavior? Get expert insight and guidance on what’s causing this behavior and how to manage it.
  • Taming Wild/Fearful Cats.
  • Fears, Stress, Depression, and Anxiety Disorders: Identifying issues like hyperesthesia syndrome, post-traumatic stress syndrome, and working with veterinarians for treatment and correction.
  • Kittens: Raising a well-behaved and healthy kitten, including care, feeding, and socialization.
  • Senior Cats: Special care and behavioral considerations for older cats, including cognitive dysfunction disorders in elderly cats.
  • Spaying/Neutering: The pros and cons.
  • Free Roaming/Leash Walking: The pros and cons of letting your cat roam freely or walk on a leash.
  • Territorial Behavior: Understanding territoriality in cats and creating a "cat-friendly" environment.
  • Infectious Diseases in Street Cats: Prevention and treatment before bringing a stray cat into your home.
  • Psychology of Lost Cats: Extensive experience in locating lost cats and detailed situation analysis.
  • Street Cats: First aid, humane trapping techniques, and care.
Cervices
General consultation

Duration: 30 minutes

General Online Video Consultation

Default platform: Zoom

(Or choose the platform that’s most convenient for you: Google Meet, Messenger, or WhatsApp)

35 $
Schedule
Problem resolution work

Duration: 1 hour

Addressing the main issue

A detailed analysis and in-depth work on behavior correction.

Default platform: Zoom

(Or choose the platform that’s most convenient for you: Google Meet, Messenger, or WhatsApp)

70 $
Schedule
Cat Home Harmony: 4-Session Package

A personalized behavior support program.

✅ Four one-hour private video consultations (scheduled every two weeks)

✅ Ongoing chat support between sessions to answer all your questions

✅ Tailored advice and action plans based on your cat’s unique needs

✅ Perfect for addressing behavioral challenges, strengthening the cat-human bond, and creating a calm, enriching home environment

Zoom, Google Meet, Messenger, or WhatsApp)

144 $
Schedule
How i work
I get to know your pet and their environment
I collect information about their life, behavior, and medical history.
I develop a personalized behavior modification plan tailored to your pet’s needs.
Ongoing communication with the owner, with adjustments or updates as needed.

How to Litter Train a Stray Cat



When you bring a stray cat into your home, litter training is just one part of the process. It's also important to follow a general adaptation plan (see: Adapting a Stray Cat to Your Home), but here we'll focus specifically on how to teach them to use the litter box.

  1. Prepare a litter box area in advance and show it to the cat as soon as you bring them home. Try not to change its location until the cat is fully used to it.
  2. Use an open litter box at first. Don’t try to introduce a closed or automatic box right away—this could be overwhelming.
  3. If it’s the cat’s first time indoors, give them time to adjust. This may take anywhere from a few hours to several days—or even weeks—especially for feral cats.
  4. It’s best to start the adaptation in a small space like a bathroom, laundry room, or crate, and gradually allow the cat to explore more of the home.
  5. Never punish or scold the cat for missing the litter box. It won’t help with training, as the cat won’t understand why you’re upset. It may also cause fear or stress, making things worse.
  6. Cats often use the litter box right after eating. Place the cat in the litter box after meals, and gently scratch the litter with your hand or help them do it with their paw to show them the purpose of the box.
  7. Try the confinement method if the cat is very scared or hiding. Confine them temporarily in a small space (like a crate or bathroom) with a litter box, food, water, and a bed. Cats are very clean animals and won’t relieve themselves near where they sleep or eat. This method usually takes only a day or two.
  8. You can sprinkle a small amount of soil in the litter box—preferably clean potting soil, not dirt from outside, which may contain unfamiliar or threatening scents from other cats. The natural smell can help the cat recognize it as a toilet area.
  9. In more difficult cases, try using soil and leaves from the area where you found the cat. Place this in the litter box, then gradually mix it with cat litter or switch to a different litter type until the transition is complete.

How to train a Kitten to Use the Litter Box



Kittens Under 4 Weeks Old
Kittens younger than 4 weeks old need help going to the bathroom, which is usually done by their mother. She licks their genital area to stimulate urination and defecation.
If you’re caring for a very young orphaned kitten, you’ll need to take on this role. After each feeding, gently stimulate the kitten’s genital area using a clean cotton pad or tissue moistened with warm water. This mimics the mother’s licking and helps the kitten empty their bladder and bowels.

Kitten Older 4 weeks old.

Get a low, open litter tray for your kitten. You can even make a temporary one from a shallow plastic container or an aluminum baking tray—something easy to step into while the kitten is still small. Once the kitten grows, you can switch to a regular adult litter box.
After every feeding and whenever your kitten wakes up, place them in the litter box and gently show them how to dig by moving their paw in the litter. If the kitten urinates on the floor, don’t scold them. Instead, soak a cotton ball or tissue in the urine and place it in the litter box—this way, the kitten will recognize their scent and be more likely to use the box next time.
If the kitten refuses to use the litter box and keeps going on the floor, be patient. If they don’t go right after you place them in the box, watch them closely. As soon as you notice signs they’re about to go—like sniffing the floor, digging, or suddenly stopping play and squatting—quickly place them in the box!
How do you know a kitten is about to pee on the floor? If they suddenly stop what they’re doing, start sniffing around or digging the floor, or take a familiar squatting position—scoop them up and into the box! Usually, litter training only takes 1–2 days. It’s best to choose a day off to start training, as it takes a bit of time and patience to supervise them closely.
Some people use the “small space” method. This means placing the kitten temporarily in a confined area like a large box or a pet crate with a litter tray, food, water, and a small sleeping area. This helps reinforce the right habits more quickly.

How to Stop Your Cat from Jumping on the Counter?


It’s natural for cats to climb trees and higher places where they feel safe and can observe their surroundings from above. For a cat, the kitchen counter isn’t just a place to jump onto—it’s also a spot where various treats and food items are stored. Some cats love to climb into the sink and drink water from the tap or filter, and some can even open the tap or the water filter lid on their own.

What Can You Do to Stop Your Cat from Climbing on the Counter?

  1. First and foremost, avoid scolding or punishing the cat. Not only will this not help, but it may also create fear or aggression in your cat, damaging your relationship and causing other behavioral issues.
  2. Don’t keep food on the counter or store it in a way that the cat can reach it. Keep food covered or in places that the cat can’t access.
  3. Before trying to stop your cat from jumping on the counter, offer an alternative. If possible, place a scratching tree nearby, hang a shelf, or install a window perch. The best place is near a window.
  4. Make sure all family members are on the same page. No one should allow the cat on the counter, especially not petting, giving attention, or feeding the cat there. Everyone should follow the steps described below.
  5. As soon as the cat jumps on the counter, calmly pick it up and place it on the floor or on the scratching tree or shelf. You can use words like “No” or “Don’t,” but avoid scolding or punishing the cat.
  6. When the cat jumps onto its designated spot, praise it immediately. Pet it, give praise, and offer a treat. You can also guide the cat to the new spot during play with a toy or string, and once it jumps there, reward and praise it.
  7. If the cat jumps on the counter to drink, offer an alternative such as a large glass or stainless-steel bowl or an automatic water fountain. Make sure the water is always clean, as cats tend to refuse to drink if the water is dirty and may prefer drinking from the tap.
  8. If you do everything correctly, your cat will gradually lose interest in jumping on the counter and will find plenty of reasons to use its favorite perch or scratching tree.
This version focuses on the counter instead of the table while keeping all other advice the same.
Contact information
Phone: +972 553088408
Email: juliacatsnow@gmail.com
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